Kampong Speu palm sugar, a symbol of Khmer national identity, is celebrated for its exceptional quality and delectable taste. This product has gained popularity overseas, finding its way to markets in France, the US, India, China, and the EU.

The soaring demand has provided palm juice collectors, the local farmers, with a substantial income. In just over five months (one season), they can earn an impressive sum of $4,000 to nearly $6,000.

Climbing palm trees may sound exhausting, but for Kong Nap, a 48-year-old resident of Trapaing Ropeak village in Kampong Speu province’s Samaki Monichey district, it’s a simple profession that sustains her family’s livelihood.

“My husband and I find this profession simple, and it contributes greatly to our livelihood,” she proudly said.

Nap, a mother of three, with her daughter and one son already married, revealed her daughter earns her living by farming and collecting palm juice. Owning 25 palm trees and two hectares of farmland, she has been able to thrive in this industry. Moreover, her husband Top Vith, a seasoned palm juice collector for over 20 years, is now a member of the Kampong Speu Palm Sugar Promotion Association (KSPA).

Before joining the association, Nap faced numerous challenges. Finding a market for the sugar was difficult, and even when one was found, she could only sell it at a lower price of 4,000 to 5,000 riel ($1.00 to $1.25) per kilogramme.

However, since becoming a member, her worries about selling palm sugar have vanished. The association acts as the sole buyer, ensuring a guaranteed market for their product. Her husband now squeezes palm juice from all 25 trees, resulting in 20kg of palm sugar production.

“I am no longer worried,” Kong Nap said. “No matter how much sugar I produce, the association will purchase it all. In fact, producing palm sugar has proven to be a better alternative to migrating abroad for work or even becoming a garment worker. During the dry season, I primarily focus on palm sugar production, whereas in the rainy season, I tend to my farming activities.”

The KSPA has revolutionised the traditional method of making palm sugar. In the past, people would squeeze palm juice without specific timing and boil it on an open stove without any time limits. However, after joining the association, new and improved methods were introduced. They provided a sanitary stove equipped with a pipe to prevent smoke from escaping the edges of the pan.

Sam Saroeun, president of KSPA, established the organisation in 2008. Their responsibilities include inspecting palm sugar products and issuing geographical indication (GI) certificates. Additionally, they have a separate farming community that purchases palm sugar from farmers and sells it to the company. Both the company and the farming community pay for the association’s services, as they issue the necessary GI certification for exporting palm sugar products to other countries.

Kampong Speu palm sugar, as displayed by the association. PHOTO SUPPLIED

The association presently consists of 156 palm sugar producing farmers spread across Kampong Speu’s Oudong Me Chey town and Samrong Tong and Samaki Monichey districts, as well as Ang Snuol district of neighbouring Kandal province. These farmers collectively own 300,000 palm trees, with only 3,000 being used for extracting palm juice. The remaining trees remain unutilised due to a shortage of workers.

Saroeun expressed concern about the aging labour force, stating: “Before, our collectors were able to climb between 40 to 50 trees. However, as they get older, their physical strength has weakened, resulting in them being able to climb only five to 20 trees.”

The association has strict criteria for palm trees suitable for sugar production. For a palm tree to receive a geographical indication, it must be grown in an area with an 80cm depth of sand followed by another 80cm of red gravel beneath it. Furthermore, the palm juice must be processed within 15 hours from the time of extraction until boiling.

“With palm trees rooted on sandy soil, water filtration occurs faster, resulting in higher sugar content,” Saroeun explained. “The palm juice that absorbs this substance produces juice that is more aromatic and tasteful compared to those with clay underground.”

Each season, around 200 to 250 tonnes of sugar are produced from the 3,000 palm trees. The productive season for sugar palm is from December to the end of May. Beyond this period, farmers are unable to produce palm sugar due to the compromising effect of the rainy season on the purity of the palm juice.

During the rainy season, farmers focus on their farming activities as palm sugar cannot be mixed with any other substances because it needs to be a purely natural product. Failure to adhere to the association’s instructions after multiple attempts will result in the association ceasing to recognise them.

Kampong Speu palm sugar has made its mark internationally, being exported to countries such as France, the UK, US, China, India, South Korea, and other ASEAN countries in powdered form.

Locally, sand and brick-shaped sugar varieties are sold at prices ranging from 8,000 to 10,000 riel. These products proudly bear the Kampong Speu Palm Sugar label and can be found on the shelves of supermarkets.

Saroeun’s concerns about the labour shortage are directly linked to the demand of foreign markets. He consistently promotes the benefits of palm tree farming to attract new workers. Presently, palm sugar farmers can earn between $4,000 to nearly $6,000 per season. Recognising their achievements, the association received an award from the Ministry of Commerce on World Intellectual Property Day in April 2023.