In celebration of Cambodia's rich cultural heritage, the French hospitality group Accor is reviving the country’s Golden Era through a month-long event this August as part of their “Discover Cambodia” campaign.

The celebration features a variety of events, including culinary experiences, music performances and themed exhibitions that highlight both traditional and modern aspects of Khmer culture.

The event is taking place across three capital-provinces – Phnom Penh, Sihanoukville and Siem Reap – in all eight of the group’s hotels in Cambodia.

Each hotel is hosting exclusive events, such as special dining experiences, live music from the era and unique cultural activities, all designed to attract both locals and international visitors.

The campaign not only aims to revive interest in Cambodia's cultural heritage and boost tourism but also to inspire greater involvement from the private sector in promoting the country's unique offerings.

The Golden Era refers to a period during the 1950s and 1960s marked by a flourishing of the arts and the rise of iconic musicians and filmmakers, with Phnom Penh earning the nickname "Pearl of Asia”.

While primarily associated with music, the Golden Era also saw the introduction of European culinary techniques, particularly from France, into Cambodian cuisine, reflecting the nation's openness to global cultural trends.

This past weekend, August 16-17, Makila, Novotel Phnom Penh BKK 1’s signature restaurant, continued its revival with a celebration featuring Khmer musical classics from the 1960’s and dishes with a mix of Spanish and French Basque influence.

As part of the event, the illustrious Miss Sarawan and her ensemble performed both energetic and nostalgic favourites from the era, creating a captivating mix of the proud Basque and Khmer heritages.

Besides a buffet of Basque classics, including lamb shoulder stew, fried sea bass in Vizcaína sauce, beef cheeks in red wine (carrilleras) and sauteed mushrooms with garlic and parsley (setas al ajillo), a selection of pintxos was served.

Some that stood out were the Talo Magret, featuring succulent slices of duck breast on a traditional Basque cornmeal flatbread and Le Serrano, showcasing the rich taste of Serrano ham, goat cheese and sun-dried tomatoes in a uniquely Basque presentation. These pintxos provided guests with a true taste of the Basque Country, combining simplicity with bold, authentic flavours.

Basque flair in Phnom Penh

Novotel general manager Julien Alexandre Péchey highlights that Makila is the first restaurant of its kind in Phnom Penh, and quickly shows his enthusiasm for the restaurant and event by first providing some background.

“Fifteen per cent of Basque Country is in France, with 85 per cent in Spain, but it’s the same culture. Originally, our dishes were created by a French chef who worked in Biarritz [France]. It’s in the southwest, near the Basque region,” he explains.

He notes that the entrance doors open directly into the restaurant, which features an open kitchen, where executive chef Fernando Tabernero creates a huge dish of paella for all to view and appreciate.

“Our signature restaurant here is unique. It’s accessible from the front side door without entering the lobby, giving the customer a different experience,” he remarks.

The style is reminiscent of a traditional Khmer "salas" house, where the main doors open into a large, high-ceilinged central area.

Péchey adds that the attached bar, called Kaixo, means “hello” in Euskara, the regional language of the Basque Country, adding to the warm, inviting feeling.

“Most of our alcohols come from Spain, but not all,” he mentions.

“We also have a unique selection of wines and liqueurs. The green one there is very rare,” he says, pointing at two bottles of Izarra.

The digestif is produced from a blend of herbs, spices and other botanicals, combined with Armagnac, a type of brandy. The recipe has been closely guarded, contributing to its mystique and uniqueness. It is often associated with Basque hospitality and is frequently served during social gatherings, celebrations and cultural events in the region.

Symbolism in name and design

Péchey also points out the woven fabric used in Makila's décor. It is a striking example of traditional Basque textiles, featuring strictly white and red colours arranged in vertical stripes. This pattern is deeply rooted in the culture, where the simplicity and boldness of the design symbolise purity and strength.

The fabric, sourced from a family business in France named 1910 – one of the few remaining authentic producers of this heritage material – adds a genuine touch to the restaurant's ambiance, where tradition meets contemporary design.

Makila’s marketing and communications manager, Randy Nasser, also notes the restaurant’s logo, which features the traditional symbol known as a “Lauburu”, a four-armed motif with red and green rounded and swirling arms that is commonly associated with the Basque region and its culture, symbolising prosperity and good fortune.

Péchey explains the restaurant takes its name from the makila, which is a traditional Basque walking stick and holds particular symbolic value in the region.

It also features waitstaff dressed in traditional Basque costumes, complete with the red beret (txapela) and red neckerchief (zapi), which are iconic elements of the region’s attire.

“The makila has a lot of meaning. It’s like a promise, a symbol of loyalty. It was originally a walking stick, used in the mountains, but also for protection against wild animals and thieves,” Péchey says.

He explains that the makila is made from the wood of the medlar tree (Mespilus germanica) and represents authority and respect. Today, it is often given as a gift to honour individuals during significant events.

“This is something you give as a personal gift to high-ranking officials or ministers. It’s unique, and you keep it for life. When Pope John Paul II visited [the region], he received one. High-profile government officials, like those attending the G7 summit in Biarritz with [French] president Macron, also received them,” he adds.

The preparation of the restaurant's menu, food and dining experience embodies the same meticulous and time-intensive principles as the crafting of a makila. Just as the medlar branch is carefully selected, each ingredient is chosen with precision, reflecting a deep respect for quality and tradition.

The process mirrors the aging of the makila, with dishes being thoughtfully prepared and refined to ensure they are strong in flavour, resilient in texture and flexible in accommodating diverse palates.

Every detail, from sourcing ingredients to the final presentation, is carefully honed to create an authentic dining experience that resonates with the Basque cultural heritage.

"The makila is something truly special. Our presenters carry it around the tables, serving as a memorable symbol throughout the evening. It’s a unique part of our show, especially during the live presentation of our 'Poulet Basquaise' – Basque-style chicken. We have an entire performance when the dish is served à la carte," Péchey highlights.

Nasser adds, "It's truly a surprise for many. And of course, we have the paella!" as he gestures towards the paellera, a large, shallow metre-wide pan, essential for creating the socarrat, the crispy, caramelised layer of rice at the bottom of the dish.

Meet the executive chef

Chef Tabernero hails from Valencia, Spain, bringing over 20 years of culinary experience across Spain, the UK, Germany, Malaysia and China. His deep connection to Basque cuisine began early on.

"Most of Basque Country is in Spain. I fell in love with the cuisine when I was young. I worked there for a year, and that’s when I really felt a connection with the region and its food. I don’t have roots or family there, but I have a passion for it.

"As a Spaniard, I lean towards a more Spanish Basque cuisine. One of my favourite dishes, of course, is paella. I also enjoy other traditional dishes that are similar to humble, comfort food. It really connects with the Basque people and their traditions," he says.

When adapting these dishes for a Cambodian audience, Tabernero notes the adjustments he made.

"If you’ve tried Spanish food before, you’ll notice it’s usually a bit spicier. Here, I use more paprika – both sweet and spicy varieties – as well as Espelette pepper, which is smoky and mild. I’ve adjusted the spices to suit local tastes.

“I’ve also reduced the amount of salt in my dishes. Here, the taste is generally less salty and the textures are softer. If I were cooking at home, I’d use three minutes less to cook the paella for a firmer texture,” he adds with a smile.

With extensive experience in both Europe and Asia, Tabernero has skillfully integrated Asian techniques into his culinary approach.

"For example, when I was in China, I learned to use woks at very high temperatures to produce a crunchy texture while keeping the vegetables tender. I now apply that to things like broccoli and cauliflower," he explains.

When it comes to Basque cuisine, Tabernero emphasises the essence of its simplicity.

"Sometimes guests only want premium products and fancy dishes, but I try to explain that it’s about the simple, everyday food that families share – like oxtail – which is very comforting. I love to eat it with bread or fried potatoes. It’s all about using quality ingredients in season,” he explains.

"We try to use as much local produce as possible. We source local peppers, onions, carrots and potatoes. But some things, like asparagus or artichokes, we have to import. We also grow some things ourselves, like small peppers that we fry as a snack. I brought seeds back from Spain, and we’re trying to grow them here," he adds.

Péchey remarks about the overall efforts of the restaurant and hotel in general with regards to sustainability.

“It’s true, sustainability is one of our priorities, especially under the ESG [environmental, social and governance] framework. We’re working towards Eco Label certification, which requires meeting 138 criteria. It’s a process that involves energy saving, recycling, reducing food waste and sourcing local products,” he says.

“It’s quite a challenge. We’re working on it and expect to be certified by the end of the year. We’re currently about 88 per cent of the way there,” he adds.

As for the future of the restaurant, Tabernero shares his excitement about upcoming developments saying, "At Makila, we’re working a lot on the business lunches, which are going well. Soon, I’ll create a new menu for the evenings with more Spanish orientated Basque dishes.

“Right now, the food is a bit more French, but I want to incorporate more Spanish flavours and offer some dishes to preorder, like paella or whole roasted pig, served family-style. It could be very interesting for guests, especially if they invite friends and try something special from the chef,” he highlights.