​Colonial ghosts: Ice and beer with the brothers Larue | Phnom Penh Post

Colonial ghosts: Ice and beer with the brothers Larue

National

Publication date
03 March 2000 | 07:00 ICT

Reporter : Phelim Kyne

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In the second of a series of articles focusing on the history of some of Phnom Penh's better-known French colonial landmarks, the Post's Phelim Kyne lifts a glass at the National Archives to the former glory of the Brasseries & Glacières de L'Indochine Ltd.

The imposing facade of the old Brasseries & Glacières de L'Indochine building on Street 154 stands in defiant counterpoint to the ruin and decay time has wrought on its interior.

These photos by Stephen O'Connell show the toll that time has taken on the once-proud establishment of the Larue Brothers on Street 154, still graced with the jaguar's enigmatic smile.

Once a symbol of French industrial prowess in the capital of the French Protectorate of Cambodia, the efficient bustle that once defined Phnom Penh's premier ice factory and brewery is now a grimy shadow of its former self.

While the outer buildings of the old brewery have survived relatively unscathed as parking areas and warehouses serving nearby Psah Kandal, the heart of the complex displays all the structural integrity of a Grozny high-rise.

Just past a small group of women in the factory's main entranceway, busy rendering a malodorous pig carcass into an unidentifiably saleable form, the interior of the building is a filthy rat warren of rotting human debris.

Sunlight and sorely-needed breeze filter through the patchwork patterns of what little roof remains into the center of what was once an antiseptic state-of-the-art facility producing thousands of liters of beer and soft drinks and tons of ice annually.

In the former offices on the building's second floor, broken windows and heaps of human feces in varying states of decomposition seem like calculated insults to the memory of colonial administrative efficiency.

It's an ignoble finale for a building whose importance to the community caused the street upon which it was located to be originally christened La Rue de Glacières.

These photos by Stephen O'Connell show the toll that time has taken on the once-proud establishment of the Larue Brothers on Street 154, still graced with the jaguar's enigmatic smile.

The site upon which the old BGI factory now stands began its industrial history in 1895, following joint permission granted by both the French Resident Superieur and King Norodom, allowing a M. Borrelly of Saigon to open a factory to manufacture "ice to be made with filtered water, clear without strange odors or taste."

By January 1906, ownership of the ice factory had passed to the Larue brothers, French entrepreneurs from Saigon who changed the name of the plant to Glacières de L'Indochine, and who, within weeks of commencing business, had already begun petitioning authorities to allow for an increase in the regulated price of ice "for the protection and betterment of the ice industry."

The ambition and business acumen of the Larue brothers is reflected in many pieces of official correspondence with French Protectorate officials documenting the steady expansion and modernization of the factory's facilities.

After months of consideration of potential safety risks and environmental impact, authorities granted approval for a mechanization of the plant that necessitated the construction of Phnom Penh's first large-scale industrial oil storage facility.

By the early 1930s, the Larue brothers earned the gratitude of heat-stressed expatriates throughout French Indochina by expanding their product line to include production of the region's first domestically brewed beer.

Featuring the familiar "Black Jaguar" logo of the old Brasseries et Glacières de l'Indochine, this letterhead from another era evokes not only the scent of beer but perhaps a trace of opium as well, for those familiar with the colorful - and odorous - history of colonial times.

Cunningly christened Bière Larue, the factory's new output necessitated both a new company name, Brasseries & Glacières de L'Indochine (BGI), and a distinctive black jaguar logo that survives on contemporary Beer Lao labeling.

By the late 1930s, BGI factories were busily churning out both ice and bottles of Larue from production facilities in Phnom Penh, Vietnam, and Laos.

The entry of the Larue brothers into the domestic alcohol industry signaled a distinct departure from the way alcohol products had traditionally been produced and marketed under Cambodia's French administration.

Until the early 20th century, alcohol concessions were considered by French Protectorate authorities as a poor cousin to the far more lucrative government-regulated opium trade.

The profitability of opium over alcohol makes the attitude of the French authorities understandable.

A glance at French Protectorate tax revenue statistics for 1881 reveals that sales of liquid opium and opium boules through a regulated network of Cambodian opium dens reaped double the profits derived from alcohol sales.

Concessions to sell alcohol - primarily locally produced rice wines - were paired with opium concessions and overwhelmingly dominated by ethnic Chinese merchants.

The contradictions in French policy that fostered the expansion of an industry based on narcotics and alcohol that were either proscribed or strictly regulated in France did not escape the notice of French reformers of the day.

In a scathing 1906 editorial in the French-language Saigon newspaper L'Opinion, Cambodian French Protectorate authorities were accused of "an odious exploitation of the most disgraceful and degrading vices upon a hardworking, ignorant indigenous population ... enslaving them to the lowest moral depths."

Other French observers of the Protectorate's alcohol policies were struck by more pragmatic concerns.

M. Gilles, a representative of French distilleries in Vietnam, felt moved to complain to the Cambodian Résident Supérieure in 1912 that "in this region, Asian distillers, [in particular] the Chinese, are the sole beneficiaries of this type of business."

And although the French Minister of Colonies contemplated as late as 1927 the potential benefits of a prohibition of alcohol in France's colonies, the proposal prompted Kampong Cham's Chief Medical Officer to counter that "prohibition is against our ideals and customs."

By 1935, debate over the morality of the region's alcohol industry had been superseded by concern over how to maximize profits.

Pioneers in early marketing concepts, the Larue Brothers of BGI began experimenting with innovative advertising gimmicks in order to distinguish their product in a marketplace increasingly cluttered with imported French alcohol products.

In a stroke of marketing genius eerily familiar to veterans of Cambodia's contemporary beer wars, the Résident Supérieure granted BGI permission to erect a "seven meter by two meter replica of a bottle of Larue next to the Martell sign along the road to Saigon near the Monivong Bridge."

Such efforts apparently paid off, enabling BGI by the Sihanouk era to expand its product line to include the addition of an eponymous lemonade soft drink.

The unreliability and scarcity of supplies wrought by the spiraling civil war caused the production lines of BGI to roll to a stop for the last time near the end of the Lon Nol period.

Following the KR takeover of Phnom Penh in 1975, the factory complex was converted to accommodate a smelter operation for the production of scrap iron.

The BGI premises continued to be used for that purpose until the early 1980s when it was converted yet again to produce bottle caps, thousands of which still cover the old factory floor.

In the 1990s, the facility served as a storage depot for Coca-Cola. It has stood empty since 1997.

Its days of slaking generations of Cambodian thirsts long behind it, the old BGI building now shares the same uncertain future as so many other architectural achievements of Cambodia's French Protectorate period.

 

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