Following the lifting of international post-Covid-19 travel restrictions, Cambodia has seen a slow but encouraging increase in visitors.

With foreign arrival numbers yet to rebound to pre-pandemic heights, local tourism has unexpectedly become a lifeline.

The scene at Angkor Wat has been transformed, with busy guides and their domestic visitors forming a new alliance and breathing new life into the appreciation of Cambodia’s rich historical tapestry.

Meas Sovannaroth, a Siem Reap-based tour guide, found himself exploring different career paths after the Covid-19 pandemic brought the tourism industry shuddering to a stop. 

He ventured into real estate and the sale of agricultural machinery, but his passion for sharing his knowledge never waned. In 2022, as visitors began to trickle back, he returned to his roots, reconnecting with the heritage he loves. 

Now, Sovannaroth balances his guiding work with a part-time job as a Grab driver, allowing him to support his family while he waits for tourism to complete its slow comeback.

Crowds returning

“The enthusiasm in November has been encouraging,” he shared. “We’ve seen a revival in interest for Angkor Wat and other temples, providing some stability after several challenging years.” 

This surge in local interest has proved beneficial to both guides and Cambodian visitors.

After years where historical were primarily frequented by international guests, domestic tourists are becoming increasingly captivated by the Kingdom’s rich past.

Kea Simon, a guide with 17 years of experience, observes a newfound curiosity among Cambodians. 

“Many local guests now want to understand the stories behind our temple sculptures,” he explains. 

“They’re interested in our history, culture and architectural heritage, which is deepening their connection to these sites,” he adds.

He says that when he meets local tourists in front of the temple, he doesn’t discuss prices in advance, as it often depends on their interest and intent.

Simon notes that to get the opportunity to work and share knowledge with Cambodian guests, most guides don’t focus on discussing guide fees. 

He explains that the duration of each tour also depends on the temple’s location – larger temples need more detailed explanations, while smaller ones often require a briefer introduction.

Newfound fascination

With years of experience, Simon notes that in the past, it was rare for Cambodian visitors to hire a guide due to limited interest in history and budget constraints. 

However, since 2022, following the Covid-19 crisis, domestic tourists appear to have become more interested in the history, culture, architecture, religion and art of the temples.

“They are now part of preserving our culture by wanting to learn more about the temples,” he says, adding “If they only came to take photos, they wouldn’t understand the true depth of it, no matter how much they read in books.”

Tour guides pose for a selfie while they wait for new clients to share their knowledge with. Supplied

Simon acknowledges that beyond sharing knowledge, the increase in local tourists also helps sustain the guide profession.

“Usually, when I’m stationed at the Bayon temple, after about an hour of guiding local visitors, they give me between 50,000 to 60,000 riel,” he tells The Post.

“Some guests even offer up to $20 or $30. For foreigners, we generally discuss the price beforehand. But Cambodians are kind-hearted; they appreciate our effort and understanding,” he adds.

Cultural knowledge, cultural pride 

Cambodian tourists are increasingly filling the gaps, bolstering the industry thanks to their growing historical curiosity and national pride. 

Director of the Siem Reap Provincial Department of Tourism, Thim Sereyvuth, highlighted the importance of educating young Khmer about their heritage. 

“Guides now offer tours to local students, enhancing a deeper understanding of real history, including topics like the monarchy, Brahmanism, Buddhism, temple styles, architecture, mythology and the various wars that are depicted in the engravings of each temple,” Sereyvuth tells The Post. 

He adds that this means more Cambodians are learning to understand and appreciate their culture more deeply. 

While the number of tourists remains modest, tour guides are now focusing on local visitors, which has helped sustain their work and keep the profession thriving.

Can domestic tourists tide the industry over?

This situation has allowed guides and visitors to benefit from each other. Visitors who previously weren’t interested in the historical narratives are now gaining a deeper understanding of temple sculptures, while the guides can continue in their profession.

Despite this, Khieu Thy, president of the Angkor Tour Guide Association, which has over 200 members, is unsure if the uptick in domestic clients will be enough.

“I hope our tourism sector can grow again, but there’s an overly optimistic analysis predicting that 2025 will match 2019 levels. Obviously, 2025 is just around the corner, and there's no clear sign of such an increase,” he says.

“About 50 guides sit in front of Angkor without any earnings, yet they’re willing to do this despite knowing it’s unprofessional and inappropriate,” he adds.

Their goal is to attract both national and international visitors as a group.

Mixed predictions for future

Thy acknowledges the difficult current climate, pointing to a “high season” that felt more like the off-season. 

A guide escorts a family of Khmer tourists across the causeway at the Kingdom’s iconic Angkor Wat Temple. Siem Reap provincial tourism department

“October was a disappointment, with demand falling short of expectations,” Thy notes. “Only November showed a significant uptick in reservations. The upcoming months are unpredictable, leaving guides facing limited work opportunities.” 

In comparison to last year, when guides could find work for 20 days a month, they now average just 12, with many stationed at the temples daily to attract tourists.

Another indicator of the downturn, he adds, is how Old Market area businesses like restaurants, hotels, and guesthouses are seeing fewer visitors than last year.

With fewer reservations, guides are facing a tough market and must go out on their own to find guests at the temples, especially at Angkor Wat.

"The number of guides has been declining since Covid-19, with some changing careers. A group of our guides now stands in front of Angkor, inviting both foreign and Khmer visitors to use their services as much as possible,” Thy tells The Post.

Ministry points to signs of recovery

Cambodia’s tourism sector, which once contributed significantly to the national GDP, faced a massive downturn when the pandemic hit. 

In 2019, international tourist arrivals exceeded 6.6 million, but by 2021, this number had plummeted to under 200,000 due to travel restrictions and global health concerns. 

The resulting closures of hotels, restaurants and other tourism and hospitality businesses affected thousands of jobs, forcing guides like Sovannaroth, Thy and Simon to find alternate sources of income.

In 2023, however, the sector began to bounce back as travel resumed, drawing international tourists back to iconic locations like Angkor Wat. 

A report from the Ministry of Tourism noted a 32 per cent increase in international arrivals in early 2024 compared to the previous year. 

“The Kingdom of Wonder” campaign, alongside Cambodia’s new visa policies, has successfully highlighted the country as a secure and culturally enriching destination, appealing to tourists worldwide, explained the ministry.

The recent opening of the Siem Reap-Angkor International Airport has further boosted tourism in the region, it added. 

Within its first year, the airport managed over 1.3 million passengers, improving accessibility to sites beyond the well-trodden paths. 

This, combined with increased infrastructure and new accommodation options, has made Siem Reap more attractive to both foreign and local visitors.