Australian-run Willow, with just 12 rooms, is best known to Phnom Penh expats as home to the weekly Wednesday-night quiz night, overseen by a deftly competent, amusingly wry, Brit “quiz bitch”. But during the rest of the day – and on any evening other than Wednesday – the garden restaurant/bar offers respite from the hubbub of the nearby Independence monument traffic scrum. Overseen by long-time Phnom Penh resident Eliza Mealey, the rooms in what was formerly the EU headquarters in Phnom Penh are spacious, comfortable and exude a charm that comes from having left some things slightly rough at the edges – or as they were. There’s no fussiness here, just welcoming family-style comfort.