At the foot of Kulen Mountain in Beng Mealea village in Siem Reap province’s Svay Leu district lies a hidden gem as ancient as it is mysterious – Beng Mealea (lotus pond) Temple.

The structure, often overshadowed by its more famous cousin, Angkor Wat, offers a unique window into the grandeur of the Khmer Empire. 

Around 70km from Siem Reap town, the temple, largely left in its natural state, beckons modern explorers with its wild beauty and enigmatic ruins.

The temple showcases classical Khmer architecture with a cruciform layout and intricate carvings depicting scenes from Hindu mythology. 

However, unlike Angkor Wat, Beng Mealea has not undergone extensive restoration, allowing the natural environment to reclaim the site. The result is a dramatic interplay of nature and human ingenuity.

"The overgrowth of massive trees intertwining with the stonework is both haunting and beautiful," once noted the late Damian Evans, an archaeologist who extensively studied the Angkorian period. 

"This temple offers a rare glimpse into how nature can reclaim its space, creating a dynamic and ever-changing landscape," he shared with The Post in 2013 while he was at the University of Sydney.

Even today, this ancient structure presents an awe-inspiring sight where history and nature intertwine. 

The temple, once a magnificent centre of worship and learning, now lies in a state of picturesque ruin, enveloped by the verdant growth of the surrounding forest. 

Visitors to Beng Mealea are greeted by the sight of crumbling stone blocks, intricately carved lintels and towering trees that have grown over and through the temple walls. 

Moss and lichen have covered the ancient stones, creating a green carpet that blankets the ruins and adds a layer of mystique to the site. 

The temple's courtyards and corridors, once bustling with activity, are now silent except for the whispers of the wind and the rustle of leaves.

Exploring Beng Mealea is akin to stepping back in time. The relative lack of crowds compared to Angkor Wat offers a serene and reflective experience. 

"Visitors can truly immerse themselves in the ambiance, hearing the sounds of the jungle and feeling the ancient stones," Evans said at the time.

Chhorn Chanthou, a tour guide and expert in mythology, emphasised the quality of the temple's construction, likening it to Angkor Wat. 

He noted that, despite its current state of partial collapse, Beng Melea originally featured extensive sculptures. 

He said the temple complex, which was once surrounded by man-made ponds, dug to source limestone for construction, dates back to the 12th century during the reign of King Suryavarman II, who also constructed Angkor Wat.

Chanthou mentioned that the abundance of Beng trees (Afzelia xylocarpa) in the area led to a change in name from Boeung Mealea to Beng Mealea.

"I recommend visiting early in the day. The cool weather and the beauty of the temple, enhanced by the lush vegetation, make for a wonderful experience," he said.

The encroaching forest has not only added to the temple's charm but also its sense of adventure. 

Pathways are often obscured by fallen stones and dense foliage, inviting explorers to venture through the labyrinthine ruins. 

The roots of enormous trees snake across the ground and up the walls, anchoring the stones in place and creating natural sculptures that seem to pay homage to the temple's ancient past.

Bas-reliefs depicting scenes from Hindu mythology peek out from beneath the moss, offering glimpses of the temple's former splendor. 

The detailed craftsmanship of these carvings, even in their weathered condition, continues to captivate the imagination of all who visit.

So Vandy, another tour guide, mentioned an historical pagoda called Preah Ket Mealea, which inspired the original name of the temple "Prasat Mealea", pre-dating both Boeung Mealea and Beng Mealea, meaning "temple of the unpicked flowers". 

"Since Suryavarman II had no male heirs, his cousin, King Dharanindravarman II – the father of Jayaraman VII, succeeded him. During his reign, many temples, including Beng Mealea, were constructed, featuring Buddha statues in their carvings," Vandy explained.

He said the Khmer architects of the time engineered the boray (moat) around the temple to serve multiple purposes, including as a symbolic representation of the sea of milk from Brahmanic mythology.

“During the reign of Jayavarman VII, several temples were built on the grounds of Beng Mealea Temple, including Kansaeng Temple. Outside the main complex on the east side was Don Chan Temple,” Vandy added. 

An Veasna, director of Icare Tours, highlighted the site’s unique appeal, noting its location away from the main Angkor area, which makes it an attractive destination for national and international visitors. 

He observed that tourists often express surprise at finding such a significant temple in a rural countryside setting. 

“Beng Mealea has not undergone extensive restoration; we have only done some minor cleaning and maintenance,” said Veasna.

“Even though it's smaller than Angkor Wat, its location on a high hill at the foot of Kulen Mountain makes it quite captivating,” he added.

He noted that the temple's appearance in the 1981 Hollywood movie "Raiders of the Lost Ark" and the 2004 movie "Two Brothers" further boosted its popularity among tourists.

Historical background

Beng Mealea was constructed during the reign of King Suryavarman II in the early 12th century, around the same time as Angkor Wat. 

Historical records suggest that it was built before Angkor Wat, possibly serving as a model for the latter's design. 

The temple, nearly as large as Angkor Wat, with dimensions of approximately 1,200 metres in length and 900 metres in width, was dedicated to Vishnu, a deity revered in the 12th century. Its construction involved extensive use of solid sandstone.

“Beng Mealea is a symbolic temple sharing the architectural style of Angkor Wat. It was surrounded by a boray in its prime,” said Vandy. 

"Beng Mealea and Angkor Wat were contemporaries, with the former likely serving as a testing ground for architectural techniques," once said the late Michael D Coe, a renowned archaeologist and historian who specialised in Southeast Asian studies. 

There are four smaller structures, previously termed "libraries"; two in the inner enclosure and the other two in the outer enclosure.

The site has three ponds located to the east, approximately on either side of the main entrance. Srah Keo and Srah Svaytong are in the north and Srah Thmar Baykream is in the south. 

Beng Mealea has two large structures on the south side of the third enclosure which have been termed ‘palaces’ or ‘halls’ for ritual ablutions and dances, according to UNESCO, which added the site to its World Heritage Tentative List in 2020. 

It has a long causeway that leads from the east entrance to the boray, surrounded by Naga balustrades and lion statues. Additionally, there are three other causeways leading to the other cardinal directions.

According to UNESCO, two architectural innovations can be seen in the temple complex: wide vaulted roof galleries in stone, and a vault supported on one side by a row of pillars and on the other side by a wall.

Visiting Beng Mealea

The temple is famously engulfed by dense jungle vegetation, creating a surreal atmosphere reminiscent of a lost world. Its sprawling design, with its maze-like corridors and hidden chambers, invites exploration. 

The temple’s untouched condition allows for an authentic experience, providing insights into ancient Khmer construction techniques and the natural reclaiming process. 

Each turn reveals new secrets, from hidden carvings to secluded courtyards, making it a place where history and mystery converge. The temple's blend of light and shadow through the foliage creates stunning photographic moments. 

The contrast between ancient stone and vibrant greenery is a photographer's dream, with numerous opportunities to capture breathtaking shots of the ruins intertwined with nature.